Filed from the field · The national restroom deskDispatches filed 13 · States covered 11

The Porcelain Dispatch

Restroom reviews from the collapse of American sanitation

SanctuarySanctuary List

THE LAST HONEST ROOM IN ATLANTIC CITY

5 out of 5 plungers
Illustrated image slot. No photograph accompanies this dispatch.
Image slot. No photograph accompanies this dispatch.

At three in the morning, after the casinos have taken everything a man brought with him and some things he did not, the Lucky Clover is still open. The coffee is still hot. The pie case still turns. And the restroom in back is kept so clean that it borders on an act of defiance.

The tile dates from 1974, harvest gold and avocado, cracked in places but scrubbed to a shine. The mirror is old and freckled at the edges, but someone had wiped it within the hour. The soap was full. The paper towels were stacked. A small vase on the tank held a plastic carnation, dusted.

I asked the waitress about it. Her nametag said only "Dot." She told me she cleans the restroom every time she refills the pie case, about once an hour, and has done so for nineteen years because "somebody's got to treat people decent at this hour." Then she topped off my coffee without being asked.

Up on the boardwalk, the casinos spend millions on chandeliers, carpet and free drinks designed to make losers feel like kings for exactly as long as their money lasts. Down here, Dot spends nothing but effort to make strangers feel like people. Only one of those operations is lying to you, and it isn't the diner. Somebody should build Dot a statue.

SCORE: 5 plungers. Dot.

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Full Review

Stall Number One: Notes From A Public Restroom In Late-Stage America

Tulsa, Oklahoma · Mopless Republic Travel Stop

I came through the door on assignment and stopped cold. There are moments in this line of work when a man realizes he is not reviewing a bathroom so much as documenting a failure of civilization, and this was one of them.

1 plunger
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Paradise Lost: Shangri-La At A Two-Pump Gas Station In The Middle Of Nowhere

Van Horn, Texas · The Last Chance Fuel Stop

I expected nothing. Forty miles from the nearest stoplight, at a two-pump station whose sign had lost its second vowel years ago, I braced for the worst and found a room so clean it made me question my own assumptions about the human race.

5 plungers
Sign Watch

A Liar And A Coward: The Sign Says "Cleaned Hourly"

Toledo, Ohio · PillBarn Pharmacy

Posted at eye level: a laminated sign reading that this restroom is monitored for your safety and cleaned hourly. Directly beneath it: a wastebasket overflowing onto the tile, an empty paper towel dispenser, and a hand dryer that answered my wave with the silence of a dead man.

2 plungers